AK to AZ Day 8: Crossing the Yukon

July 11
45 miles
2800 feet elevation gain

We woke up this morning knowing we were about 20 miles from the Yukon River, and that there would be hot food at the Yukon River Camp, so we figured we would get there for lunch. Our day began with a climb, and when it took us 20 minutes to cover the first mile (hiking pace), we thought it might take longer than we originally planned. Ups come with downs though, and the morning was indeed up and down. Go up, get sweaty, get harassed by mosquitos, then go down, ditch the bugs and cool off for a few minutes.

We made it to the Yukon River by 11am, still breakfast time. And to our most pleasant surprise, when we came in, the employees told us that they offer a free meal and shower to anyone who has gotten here on their own power. We weren’t planning on a shower, so it was a true treat. As everywhere we’ve been in Alaska, everyone is so friendly and helpful.

Breakfast hit the spot, the shower was refreshing, and we were on our way again, crossing the massive bridge over the Yukon. Until 1974, this was the end of the road. That year, the remainder of the Haul Road from the Yukon all the way to Deadhorse – 358 miles – was constructed over a furious 154 days. Work camps were interspersed along the route, each camp building in two directions until linking with the work of the next camp. It took 32 million cubic yards of gravel. Still, the final link, the Yukon Bridge, was not completed until the following year. Before the bridge, trucks would drive across the river ice in winter or take a ferry across in summer.

The bridge is massive, and unfortunately for us, sloped uphill, as were roughly the next 10 miles. All traces of the shower were soon gone and we were hot and sweaty again. The only saving grace was the wind, which kept the mosquitos at bay although it made the riding harder. There is a bit more traffic on this side of the river, and a bit more speeding from the drivers, but most are still curious. Motorcyclists in particular give us lots of encouragement, honking and waving and cheering us on as they pass.

The afternoon was a slog, no part was easy, and I listened to an audiobook to pass the time. So did Paul. We are now only 30 miles from the end of the Dalton Highway and roughly 110 miles to Fairbanks. This most daunting part of the journey is nearly done, I can hardly believe we’ve cycled here all the way from the Arctic Ocean.